I have had to come to terms with the fact that Iam hooked on Twitter. Not good. It also gets me into trouble. The once-in-a-decade taste of foie gras Ihad in a Boston restaurant earlier this year came courtesy of the chef – I promise – but it was so fantastically smooth and enjoyable that I didn't think twice before tweeting about it. What a mistake! Enraged followers did not spare me their venom, and who can blame them? I am, after all, more famous for my kales and leeks than for my kidneys and livers.
My next Twitter-based calamity came in March, when I tweeted a picture of asparagus bread pudding (recipe below) and ended up in abitof a clash with the seasonality brigade – I'd failed to mention that Iwas just testing a recipe for publication in May. I can't blame mydetractors for that, either.
That's because some annual cyclesreally should be respected, and with no exceptions: forced rhubarb, Seville oranges, purple sprouting broccoli, elderflower, strawberries, grouse, damsons, asparagus – all have a clear season that's worth waiting for. Asparagus may be flown in year round from theAmericas, but it ought to be eaten as close to picking as possible – the sweet sap starts to dry up as soon as the spears are cut, so the longer they're out of the ground, the drier and woodier they become. That's why British asparagus in May and June has no equal.
Classically, it's paired with dairy products – eggs, cream, salty cheese – and while those old friendships will always endure (quiches and omelettes; chargrilled spears with melted butter or hollandaise, or with crumbled feta or parmesan shavings; or simply raw asparagus dipped in mayo), there are others to explore. Citrus, for example, works very well against that sweet, nutty flavour. Make a dressing of grated orange zest, Dijon mustard, well-reduced orange juice, vinegar, chopped shallots and olive oil, spoonit over blanched asparagus and top with shaved parmesan; lemon, too, provides a stunning counterpoint in, say, a pea and asparagus risotto that incorporates lemon oil or zest and a drizzle of fresh juice at the very end.
Salty meat is another gem of a partner, providing a lovely contrast with the sulphurous sweetness of the asparagus: individual spears wrapped in prosciutto will raise the bar at any picnic the month ahead allows us. Or pair asparagus with nuts, to encourage its natural nuttiness to emerge further. And even that most homely of recipes – boiled eggs with asparagus soldiers – can be given a welcome Middle Eastern twist by mixing a tablespoon of za'atar with atablespoon of melted butter and pouring this on the spears before they get their eggy dunking.
Asparagus and chive bread pudding
The ideal companion to roast chicken, though Ican easily eat this on its own with some dressed green leaves alongside. Serves eight as a side dish.
1kg asparagus spears, woody endsremoved
80g unsalted butter, diced and left at room temperature
1 clove garlic, crushed
40g chives, finely chopped
300g stale sourdough loaf, crusts on, cut into 0.5cm slices
5 medium eggs
300ml double cream
200ml full-fat milk
¼ tsp ground nutmeg
Salt and white pepper
200g feta, crumbled
20g parmesan, finely grated (or vegetarian alternative)
Bring a large pot of salted water to aboil. Blanch the asparagus for one minute, until semi-cooked, drain, refresh under cold water and dry with a cloth. Put half the spears to one side and cut the others lengthways into two or three strips. Cut each strip into two or three segments, so you've got roughly 5cm-long, thin pieces.
Put the butter, garlic and 35g of chives in a small food processor bowl and blitz smooth. Spread this thinly over both sides of the bread.
In a large bowl, lightly whisk the eggs. Add the cream, milk, nutmeg, half a teaspoon of salt and a quarter-teaspoon of white pepper, and whisk.
Place a layer of buttered bread over the base of a 25cm x 32cm ovenproof dish, scatter the asparagus pieces on top and sprinkle over the feta. Top with the rest of the bread, pour over the custard and top with the whole spears. Press down the top with your hands, so all the bread is immersed in liquid, cover with cling-film and place a small tray on top weighed down with something heavy. Refrigerate for at least an hour.
Heat the oven to 170C/335F/gas mark 3. Remove the weight, tray and cling-film from the pudding dish, sprinkle the parmesan and the remaining chives over the top, and bake for 50-55 minutes (cover the dish with foil at the very end if it gets too dark). To check it's cooked, stick a knife into the centre and press gently – if no liquid comes to the surface, it is ready. Remove fromthe oven and leave to rest for five to 10 minutes before serving.
Grilled asparagus with avocado and horseradish
Asparagus purists may want to look away now. The horseradish in this recipe does mask the spears' gentle flavour a little, but its presence makes the dressing deliciously interesting and, if you control the amount, theasparagus still has a chance to shine. Serves four as a first course.
4 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra fordrizzling
1 tbsp double cream
1 small avocado, flesh removed andmashed
1 small shallot, peeled and finelychopped
1 small garlic clove, peeled andcrushed
½ tbsp white-wine vinegar
½ tbsp lemon juice
Salt and black pepper
10g freshly grated horseradish (or less, depending on personal preference and on how fiery it is)
½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
400g asparagus, trimmed
2 large eggs, hardboiled and peeled
2 tbsp chopped parsley
First make the dressing. In a small bowl, mix three tablespoons of oliveoil with the cream. Put the mashed avocado in a large bowl andaddthe shallot, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, a quarter-teaspoon ofsalt and plenty of black pepper.
Whisk well as you slowly pour in theoil and cream, until the mixturebecomes quite thick, a bitlike mayonnaise. (Alternatively, usea small food processor and pourin theliquids slowly while themotor's running.) Fold in the horseradish and cumin, and setaside.
Bring a large pan of water to a boil.Add the asparagus, blanch for aminute, drain, rinse under cold water and pat dry. Toss the dried spears in the remaining oil and a pinch of salt.
Heat a ridged chargrill pan and, when very hot, chargrill the spears for three to four minutes, turning once. Remove and set aside somewhere warm.
To serve, divide the warm asparagus between serving plates (or plate it up on one large platter) and spoon a band of dressing over the top. Coarsely grate the eggs, sprinkle them on top, followed by the parsley, dribble over a little oliveoil and serve.
